Tree City USA Presentation

CGC Garden tour 2010

Happy Gardeners

PLANT SALE--May 22, 2010

Many hands are needed to put together the annual plant sale that is held at Emerson hall each year. Janet Shanley took on the mantle of plant sale chair. The club thanks Janet for all her efforts. Lyn Mayewski is a big part of the "Big Dig"and nurses plants until the sale. This year gave the garden club the painting which was used on the posters and on the sweat shirts and the original was raffled off at the plant sale. And a big thanks for all who were at the "Big Dig," set up on Friday and worked on Saturday.

Here are some highlights from the plant sale:


Decisions, decisions!!



Future member of the Castine Garden Club?!


Members buying for their own garden?


Honey, this one will be great in our garden!

ARBOR DAY CELEBRATION

Arbor Day celebrated in Castine on May 18, brought several members of the garden club and a few people from the town office to see the dedication of the newly planted flowering cherry tree that was planted in front of the Castine Community Health Services. The location was chosen because there seemed to be a need for a tree in the front since some had been lost in years before.


Castine was recognized by the Arbor Day Foundation for our commitment to urban forestry.
This honor, a Tree City USA Community, was presented in Augusta and attended by several members of the Castine Garden Club. For more detailed information about this award go here to read: Castine Patriot

April Meeting with Hammon Buck

The April meeting highlighted the Garden Club events and projects underway. Emphasis was on the Big Dig scheduled for Tuesday, May 11^th. Meet at Lyn Mayewski’s at 9 a.m. with shovels, gloves and water. Reserve May 21^st for the Plant Sale set up. Wear your CGC sweatshirt on the day of the Plant Sale, May 22^nd. Contact Janet Shanley if you don’t have yours yet.

Arbor Day in Castine is planned for May 18^th and the membership voted to plant a tree either on the Common or at the Health Center. Final decision is pending approval by the Board of Selectmen. A committee is exploring placing a granite bench on Dyce Head grounds, a gift of the Garden Club. And, we are anticipating welcoming to Castine the 150 to 200 members of the Garden Club Federation of Maine for their state convention June 21-23, 2011.

The April Program featured Hammon Buck of Plants Unlimited in Rockport who fielded a wide variety of questions on perennials. The plants discussed began with hydrangeas ad ended with heath and lavender and covered dozens in between. Questions included the importance of winter mulching and how to keep deer away. Sue Macdonald pointed out that the www.plants-unlimited.com website is a valuable information resource that keeps Maine gardeners up to date about when to do what in your garden.

Submitted by: Anne P

Photo by: Jessie R

March Meeting Notes--Grafting Apple Trees

C. J. Walke, landscape coordinator for MOFGA gave our March program on grafting fruit trees. MOFGA (Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association www.mofga.org). His depth of knowledge on the subject was not surpassed by the abundant patience he needed to direct this novice group of knife-packing women!

In this session, Wolf River Apple (scion wood), whose branches were donated by Letha W was grafted onto a root stock (purchased from FEDCO www.fedcoseeds.com). Some members did bring a branch from their own garden to graft to the root stock.

The information on this blog is to give a summary of what was presented and not a "How-To!" Some of our presenters provide entertainment, but I think we were the entertainment for C.J.--read on!
The grafting method presented was the "whip and tongue" or taking a branch (scion wood) of the Wolf River and putting it on the root stock (Anatanovka).

The scion wood (the apple tree that is grafted) is cut above last years growth collar (see above). Last year's growth is redish-purple in color with no defects or dying.
Just before the cutting began, we were informed that a first aid kit was required to be present during this grafting session. Fortunately, there was no blood drawn; however, next time maybe the Bagaduce Ambulance Corp should stand by!
Now this was a hands on session and we were instructed to bring a knife that is sharp on one side--who has one of those in their kitchen drawer or tool box! A proper knife is a must. C.J. had one and even brought some for sale! It's called a grafting knife. Making clean cuts of both the root stock and the scion wood even with a proper knife takes some practice, which meant that the re-tries were plentiful and the scion wood branches became scarce--especially the ones with diameters of the scion wood and root stock being the same. Did I mention this was a bit tedious?
Now that is a clean cut! The root stock was cut about 2 inches above the soil line and the scion wood was cut above last years growth ring between 2 buds --also see that the buds are going up. On both the scion wood and the root stock, the angle of the cuts should be the same. In the photo see the angle of the cut and note the cambium, which is the growth part of the tree. The cambium can be seen as a ring inward from the bark.
A slit of 1/8" to 1/4" (straight down the centers) of each piece makes the tongue. Interlock the "tongues" paying particular attention to the cambiums matching. When the sizes of the scion and root stock are not the same size (as was the case for a lot of us--remember there were numerous re-tries), place the scion wood to one side so the cambiums are touching.

Lastly, the graft is taped and the top (end) of the scion wood is coated with a special "goo" or tree coat.

Grafting is usually done in April, with the root stock slightly "waking-up" or sweated and the scion wood dormant, which means the scion wood has to be cold (refrigerated). This combo promotes good healing.
It will take 7 to 10 days for the graft to callus and start the "healing" process.

• store a cool (40-45 degrees) in a dark place until planted
  
• plant in April
• make a large hole for the roots, at least 2 feet x 2 feet
• if blooms or fruit occur in the first couple of years, pinch off and do not allow to mature
• root stock determines the size of the tree: dwarf root stock produces dwarf trees.
  
• remove suckers that might come up from the root stock
• grafting is a great way to perpetuate a favorite apple if you have trees that have blown over
• Usually, you need 2 other varieties of apples with in 1/4 of a mile for pollination.
  

See the fun we had!

Day Lily Seed

Our October meeting 2009, Suzanne Stuart presented "Hybridizing Day Lilies."

The following is from an email she sent to Sue Macdonald about starting day lilies from seeds:

"They can start seeds anytime now. Do not presoak them before planting. The seeds can be planted in seedstarting soil or potting mix. You can start them in a regular seed-starting-tray or small plastic dixie cups. Regular size dixie cups will do, as well. Make sure you poke 2 or 3 holes in the bottom of the cups, for drainage. If using potting trays, wet the potting mix first and let drain for a few seconds. The same will need to be done with the dixie cups. I always use luke-warm water. Then, push each seed into the potting mix about a thirds of an inch, or until the seed is just under the surface of the mix. You can make a small hole with the tip of a pencil and drop the seed in that way. Then, lightly cover the seed. When using a seed-starting tray, just put the plastic cover over the top and set it in a warm area. With the cups, you can put a piece of plastic wrap with the holes punched in the top over the cups. Place in warm area. Do not let the soil dry out. Mist the soil if it seems dry. Seeds should sprout within a week or so. Some are just a little slower than others. Once growth starts remove the plastic cover on the cups and tray. When seedlings get 5 or 6 inches tall, (in the seed-starting tray) you can lift the seedling out using the tip of a pencil and repot it into a dixie cup. Always make holes in the bottom of cups. Using the cup method does save having to transplant from a seed tray. Depending on the size of the cup you may not have to transplant until it gets to around 12 inches tall or is top heavy. By the time June rolls around, they should be ready to go into the ground with a little fertilizer. They will not bloom this year. With the proper care, they should bloom next year. If anyone does not get germination, I have may more seeds they can have."

Thank you Suzanne. We look forward to seeing your lily gardens this summer!